Kilómetro 18 and the San Antonio forest: birds

Heading up the road to the coast, around kilometer 18, the air turns cool and the San Antonio cloud forest appears, declared an important area for bird conservation. It was first studied by Frank Chapman's expedition in the early 20th century, and today more than 300 species have been recorded.

Eight farms in the area swapped cattle, crops or the vacation house for bird tourism. At La Conchita, 18 hummingbird species visit the feeders, plus golden-headed quetzal, collared trogon and red-tailed toucan. Alejandría was the first to open to birders, and since 2021 San Felipe, Bosque de Niebla and La Florida have formed a route adapted for blind visitors, with a guide rope, QR codes and an audio guide.

Kilómetro 18 is also a food stop: locals drive up for hot chocolate or aguapanela with cheese. At kilometer 17 is Restaurante La Cabaña, with Valle-style fried snacks, arepa de choclo (sweet corn arepa), tamal and merengón, and dishes from COP 25,000 to COP 30,000 in 2025. We found no reports of damage in the area from the August 2026 earthquake.

What to see

• The hummingbird feeders at the farms, like La Conchita.
• Tanagers, quetzals and toucans in the San Antonio cloud forest.
• The adapted bird route at San Felipe, Bosque de Niebla and La Florida.
• Hot chocolate with cheese at the roadside restaurants.

Getting there

• By car or taxi from Cali on the road to the coast, through El Saladito, to kilometer 18; about 30 minutes from downtown.
• By bus or shared van heading to Dagua or La Cumbre on the road to the coast, getting off at kilometer 18.

Tips

• Get there early in the morning: the owners fill the feeders from 4:00 a.m., and there's more bird activity at first light.
• Message the farm you want to visit ahead of time: they're private homes and not all take visitors without notice.
• Bring a jacket and rain gear: it's cold at kilometer 18 and the fog rolls in in the afternoon.
• To see hard-to-find species like the quetzal, hire a local bird guide.